What I cooked last night.

You think you saw something last week in the supermarket, and you look for it, and it isn't there. Must be out of stock, you think. Then you go home and google it, and find out it was discontinued in 2008. Nuts. But I saw it not a year or so ago. Maybe two. No, you didn’t. You haven’t seen it for seventeen years; maybe fifteen if you kept a pack in your cupboard going stale for a year or two. In that fifteen years other things happened. Children were born and grew. You bought some cars. Some relatives died. Others didn’t. The house leaked for two years until you got it fixed. The house across the road sold, thank God, the owner’s subwoofer had sent earthquake rumbles under the entire street. The parish priest died.  Out-of-mind things come back as if they were there a minute ago, popping out of some elusive brain cul-de-sac, like a handkerchief in the pocket of an old coat you haven’t worn since last winter. Pro-Vita Weat-Harts: white pack, single ear of wheat graphic in ochre sil...

Of course, 3RRR and 3PBS announcers played Black Sabbath favourites all weekend; I heard ‘Changes’ oftener in the past week than I had in the last half century. Monday morning program Deeep (sic) Space concluded with the little-known Black Sabbath track 'She's Gone' (google the title and you’ll be in Hall & Oates 1970s heaven, or a 1990s stadium rock echo-chamber) from their 1976 album  Technical Ecstasy , a song that throws up a line in which perfect iambic pentameter, give or take a syllable, alchemises mere words into lyrics of otherwise  ineffable sadness and beauty: The silent emptiness of one-sided love

One day when I was a kid, I ran down a steep dune at Wilson’s Promontory that got steeper, and gravity inverted me, slamming my head through 135 degrees to hard sand. I remembered nothing until I floated home in my father's car late in the afternoon, gazing out at anamorphic scenery through the distorting glass of its 1960s curved windscreen; a psychedelic world of an unknown colour that had the taste and smell of sunshine filtered through dry desert sand. Concussion. Years later. I woke out of anaesthesia in the delirium of some drug, the one - or one of the ones - that makes you talk to anyone in your state of ecstasy, before the pain sets in and has to be worked at. A few months earlier, breathing had not returned to normal and, one x-ray later, I had found myself on the fourth floor, south, of a cream-brick hospital in Parkville. The nose had set in its broken position. No-one had noticed after the accident, in which my face had cannoned into the back of the front seat; but why...

I can’t - couldn’t then - criticise  Jaws,  the movie: I never saw it. (Although I doubted a shark could out-fright the feral truck in Spielberg’s first film, Duel . Anyone in the water would disagree, of course.) But I did read Jaws , the novel, during those strange empty months of winter 1975. I finished it one July afternoon sitting in Centrepoint, a lurid green downstairs bar off Bourke Street. I was waiting for a girlfriend, my fellow back-seat passenger who had escaped uninjured in a car accident a couple of months earlier. She worked in an office building a block away, and I had been in the habit of dropping into Centrepoint before meeting her after work.  The bar, being downstairs and a shade of green that glowed under artificial light, exuded a weirdly submarine atmosphere. I felt I was swimming through a sea of lime-green nylon carpet, laminex tables and vinyl chairs to get a drink, but maybe that was the book talking. Overhead, a circular drop ceiling simulated...

The first film of that year, 1975, was screened on a sultry afternoon in February in the old Radio Theatre, a 1940s relic in RMIT’s Bowen Lane. The film was Sydney Pollack's 1969 psychological drama  They Shoot Horses, Don’t They?  In that same month, on the other side of the world,  Dog Day Afternoon, Nashville  and Pollack’s  Three Days of the Condor  were being shot or were in post-production. As was  Jaws . Film students yet to be born would in some future or extant cinema critique those productions. The theatre door, heavy as that of a bank safe, had closed with a heavy wheeze when I entered out of the blinding sun and, feeling my way, found a seat I could barely see. In the dim luminescence of the uncurtained screen, a film lecturer called Doug who, apparently relishing the prospect of sharing his cinematic favourites with a new intake of students, was enthusiastically introducing the film before signalling the projectionist - “Roll it, Sid...

The race to the solstice had been easily won; the weeks had flown and been flung aside, bits of history never to happen again.  But then the hard part. The solstice was a chimera; the promise of daylight remaining a few minutes longer masked the prospect of a long cold wet miserable July and August. Inhabitants of other climes might jeer, and point to their winters of ten below, or their blinding snowstorms. But snow is romantic; a Melbourne winter is a bone-chilling wind-blown marathon, without the northern hemisphere’s Christmas - with its logfire-and-sleigh bells imagery - in the middle. (We get to endure that hokey European nonsense when it’s forty in the shade: Celsius.) A fellow runner - a Canadian - once admitted to me one bleak winter night that the chill wind that whipped frozen Antarctic air and dropped its cut-throat icicles onto Olympic Park, the Botanical Gardens and their surrounding pathways on which we were running, Lycra-tighted and gloved, was colder, more glacial...

Walls fall; presidents and popes are shot (if not fatally, like musicians); rockets bearing civilians drop out of the sky; clothes grow pads; music becomes a visual medium (on hearing a tune a listener, confusing senses, exclaims, ‘I remember that video!’ ); Roth/Updike/Bellow carry on jousting*. Meanwhile, you had to eat. Not everything in the 1980s was of the 1980s, such as savoury mince, an example of the kind of mundane dish that became a default meal keeping the beef grinders in business like ‘spaghetti bolognese’ does today, its reddish-beige lava bubbling over cheddar-coloured pasta mountainsides in the bowl-volcanoes of a million family tables. ‘Bolognese again?’ Savoury? That redundant word is one of the cooking clichés that never disappears. What else is minced beef except savoury? What does it even mean? The word is scattered like confetti through the recipe supplements (lift-outs, the publishers called them) stapled into those mid-century women’s magazines that sold in the...

The Pink Pussycat - as cryptic a name as I could think of to drop at the next student party - was not the only source of income, little as it was, including tips. Melbourne Airport was arguably an even better conversation starter ( what, you fly planes? - people always think the obvious) but the work here was even more mundane than pouring a ‘taste’ (a charade that even then was embarrassingly outdated) of Yalumba Carte d’Or riesling or McWilliams Shiraz Cabernet into the glass of the male half of a dining couple so that, after making a method acting impression of a furrow-browed, purse-lipped judge at Mundus Vini, he would decide whether they would drink it or not. Indeed, the airport job - money is obviously tight in this anonymous early 1980s Carltonian mise en scène - involved little more than bussing Budget rental cars from their terminal drop-off point to a depot back in the endless sun-parched acres of tarmac in the backblocks of Tullamarine, where I cleared their overflowing ...

The pub - hotel - mentioned in the previous post was, of course, Poynton’s Carlton Club, on the corner of Grattan and Cardigan, opposite the Royal Women's Hospital. The Carlton Club was three short blocks from the small terrace house, whitewashed brick in the fashion of the Greeks (the owner was Con, a barman at the Continental Hotel in Lonsdale Street, to whom I paid the rent), in which we lived for five Arcadian years (an Arcadia chequered by the stop-start linear domesticities of child-raising; the eternal nightmare-producing (even now) failure to complete a degree; and the death,  late one night , of an older sibling, announced at the door by a couple of dark blue uniforms whose lines and colouration and stance and timing told me all I needed to know.  Nine minutes walk, slightly downhill; across Elgin, Faraday, and Grattan. The hotel’s Cardigan Street side had a separate door with a 1950s backlit and illustrated sign over it: Pink Pussy Cat Bistro , the cartooni...

I had a call from the auctioneer just as I was turning right for home into Sydney Road, on a pale sunny late Friday morning. I had been down to Carlton where the cafe I frequent permits writers to spend an hour or more over one coffee exuding words. Or not. He thanked me for the gift of wine and the signed copy of the book about the Moonee Ponds business whose story I had written a couple of years ago.  I had delivered the gift of wine and book to the Mt Alexander Rd agency a few days earlier. The book part of the gift was not an ego trip; the agency had pitched itself as an expert in the district, so I thought it might fill in a few colour-by-number spots in the patchwork of local history. The auctioneer told me he had already dipped into it and had recognised several names, locations, and events. The wine accompanying the book was a Henschke, a label I could not afford now; the owner of the hotel at which I worked in the late 1970s and early 1980s had always opened a bottle (well...

The day of the house auction, a couple of weeks ago, had been significant: the final day of autumn, the end of our 72-year family ownership of a west-facing, sunset-drenched oblong on the edge of the great city of the south, and the last day of warm weather. The following morning had dawned ominously cold to a ferocious blast from Antarctica. (‘Ominously’? It could have been any adverb - ‘oddly’, ‘ironically’, ‘appropriately’, ‘strangely’ - as long as it signified meaning in the context of sheer randomness. We fear the anarchy of existence, so we invent fate, investing the electrons and quarks and bosons with the ability to talk: untold billions of particles as seers and prophets, inhabiting infinity, unable to shut up.)  I think while I cook. It’s purposeless, but fun. It makes time go by: the ‘don’t watch the kettle boil’ theory. Thinking helps pasta cook faster when the sauce is already done. If I don’t think, I will keep checking it, or pulling the griller out or opening the ov...

 R.I.P. Brian Wilson.

The road out of Melbourne rose to Ballarat through smooth green saddle-back hills like giant rearing horses embedded in the landscape. Shafts of sun pierced the clouds, setting the hills off in an eerie luminosity.  We turned off halfway to Ballarat, heading for the cross-country running race. The course was in a vineyard which sat south of the freeway on a flank - several flanks - of the rising hills. Vineyard is misleading; it was of several hundred acres. The turnoff twisted left and hairpin-bent for a kilometre, and then we turned right - ‘cross-country race’ read the sign - into a small valley with vines stretching up and away into the distance. Tents had been pitched and a generator-powered inflatable arch - the finish line - had been set up and roped off. Small triangular orange flags on metal spikes marking the course curved away and disappeared tinily over a hill. Bang. They still start these things with a gun. In the colours I had worn in a race at Ballam Park nineteen ye...