Most newspapers have a food writer, or more usually, a writer who happens to write about food.
Some are good, some ordinary.
But who'd want to be a restaurant reviewer anyway? Hello, New South Wales Court of Appeals.
This is nothing new. Leo Schofield was sued well over twenty years ago for describing a lobster he was served as an 'albino walrus'. That case would surely be thrown out today, but it wasn't then and Fairfax had to put $100,000 in the tip jar.
Freedom of speech means being able to call a crap restaurant a crap restaurant. There's enough of them.