Ruminations and recipes from a small kitchen in a big city.


Swordfish and parsley sauce.

Thirty-nine degrees tomorrow, so out comes the grill.

Barbecue and fish is a match made in heaven. Especially swordfish - otherwise known as spada - a fish robust enough to hold together on the grill, yet remains moist and tender (unless burnt, of course). As an oily fish, it promotes the development of its own barbecued flavour in the cooking. Swordfish is worth hunting down, even if you have to catch it yourself, lash it to the side of your boat and bring it in while fending off marauding sharks.

Make a simple parsley sauce - probably more correctly termed salsa, but the term is a little pretentious at an Australian barbecue - by blending two cups of chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley with two cloves of garlic, half a teaspoon each of ground cummin and coriander, a teaspoon of salt, half a cup or more of lemon juice and the same of good olive oil. Throw in half a small chilli for some heat. Adjust the lemon juice and oil to achieve a sauce that has a glistening consistency, not a sludge. You want it to run deliciously down the side of the grilled fish and give off its delicious aromas, not sit on top like a party hat.

Grill the swordfish steaks a few minutes either side; remove to serving plates, add a good amount of parsley sauce and squeeze more lemon juice over along with cracked pepper. Serve with sliced and grilled red-skinned potatoes - no need to peel.

Cold beer.

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