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William picks up a clam, Dad cooks calamari.

Down in the shallows again. Another hot day. The tide is out, leaving a little pool of water that is about four inches deep. The water is warm from the day's sun and now it is five in the afternoon.

We sat in the shallows and William slapped the water and then he picked up his very first shell. It was a live clam. This boy is going to enjoy his seafood.

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Later, in the fish shop. I love fish shops - big boxes of glistening fish, slippery squid, octopus, clams and mussels and oysters and I can never decide. The fish shop down here is doing a roaring trade with the summer crowds. The fish are walking out. So to speak.

This time, I chose the calamari. I never get bored with calamari, I just get bored with the way I cook it.

So I did it a different way.

I cooked it in a pan with a little oil, a chopped clove of garlic, a good splash of soy sauce, a tablespoon of coriander paste (a good alternative to fresh coriander - ours had finished and the market was fresh out), the juice of a lemon and about a third of a cup of water.

It cooks in minutes. Remove calamari to serving plates over a bed of lettuce, and to the fluid remaining in the pan, add two tablespoons of thick cream and half a tablespoon of cummin powder. Reduce this quickly and pour over the calamari.

Delicious. Nice with cold beer.

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