Something for any time of day.

Egg and leek pie.

Or leek frittata. Sometimes there are too many ingredients in things we make but this just the eggs and the leek and highlights their respective charms perfectly. And, of course, it's easier when there are fewer ingredients.

Slice a large leek very finely and wash carefully to remove any grit. Sweat the leeks in some butter or oil or a combination of both. Leeks sweating in butter is one of any kitchen's very best aromas. It practically brings people running.

Using a fork, lightly beat three or four eggs with a little milk. Add some grated parmesan if you wish, it's not essential. Salt and pepper are essential.

When the leeks are soft and the aroma has filled the house, fold them through the egg mixture and pour into the container in which you will cook the frittata. I use a covered non-stick pan and do it on the stove-top. Others bake it. Whatever. It will be delicious either way.

Egg and leek pie is one of those very special dishes that can be eaten at any time of day. Try it hot for a late breakfast, cold for lunch, sliced for an afternoon tea party with asparagus sandwiches and Earl Grey tea, warm for dinner with garlic mashed potato and minted peas or even a very late supper, sliced cold into tiny squares and served with an old favourite of mine: caviar on crustless toast and well-chilled champagne. Heaven.