Saturday night special: lobster tails.

I first ate lobster tails at Fairy Stork, a Acland Street Chinese restaurant that used to be known as St Kilda's Flower Drum. The food was as good, the waiters were as plentiful - and friendlier - and you could eat a banquet there for the price of a Flower Drum prawn cracker. I spent many a Sunday night there in the eighties and early nineties. I was in the habit of passing on dessert and picking up cakes from Le Bon or Monarch instead.

So that makes it long time since I've eaten lobster tails. I hadn't forgotten how good they are, however. Just don't overcook them.

Lobster tails with scallops in ginger and garlic.

Before you cook the tails, set some white rice to cook on the stove. It will be ready when the lobster is done.

Using scissors, cut the lobster tail shell through the under-middle side to the end of the tail and and then peel back the shell from the left, across the top and away at the right. Easy as taking off a shirt. Segment the tail into half-inch pieces and set them aside.

Chop an onion finely and fry it for a minute or two in some peanut oil with a dash of sesame oil added.

Now tip in half a cup of dry white wine, an inch of ginger - peeled and finely-sliced - and four cloves of finely-diced garlic. Shake the pan. Cook another minute or two. Do not allow to catch or burn.

Now add the lobster tails and the scallops. High heat for a minute or so, shake the pan. If you want a creamier 'sauce', add a teaspoon of corn flour dissolved in two teaspoons of water and stir.

The tails and scallops are done once they turn fully white. Serve immediately on just-finished rice, top with finely sliced spring onions and a dash of tamari.