A recipe for the solstice.

While I never tire of grills, barbecue and salads in summer, winter’s endless parade of soups and stews does start to pall after a while. The aromas and textures of winter food are seductive round about late autumn; but deep in winter, after sitting down to yet another bowl of something brown and hot, I start yearning for the snap and zing of tastes that are fresher and more associated with light and the outdoors.

So for winter solstice – and to celebrate the turning of the days that will now start to grow longer, heading towards another golden summer - here’s a recipe that involves one of my favourite summer ingredients - feta. I go through tons of the stuff in summer - mostly combined in the world’s best salad, with fresh tomatoes, kalamata olives, sliced onion, sliced Lebanese cucumber, crushed dried oregano and almost-green olive oil.

Chicken baked with feta and oregano.

On a biting cold day with the wind from the south and the sun a faint disc behind swirling cloud, I visited the Greek deli and picked up a large piece of feta. They always have in stock a couple of Greek brands (along with the Danish, Bulgarian and local varieties); and today they had a new one in two 'flavours' the deli lady described as ‘sweet’ and ‘hot’, which I suppose is the same as how the Italians describe some of their cheeses as ‘dolce’ and ‘piccante’. I chose the ‘hot’ one.

Here's the recipe. It's easy and delicious.

Combine 250 grams of feta, two teaspoons of dried oregano, a tablespoon of butter, a teaspoon of lemon zest, some chopped parsley and a quarter cup of lemon juice. Add salt to taste, and black pepper. Bear in mind most brands of feta are already salty.

Take a couple of bone-in chicken breasts with skin on, draw away the skin from flesh without detaching it and cram cheese mixture beneath skin. Spread remaining mixture on top.

Place chicken breasts in a baking pan and bake in a moderate oven 30 minutes, then raise heat to high and finish for 15 minutes longer. The breasts should be slightly golden on top. Sprinkle more parsley over top to serve.

Serve with Greek salad. If more feta is too much for you (impossible for me) simply make a salad of tomatoes, onion and olives. Or serve with finely sliced potatoes baked in a some chicken stock and a little milk.

Here's to longer days!

:: raises glass of red ::