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Pecking order: chickens trump children.

The full-page colour ad on page 2 (because you can’t buy page 1) showed a photo of a smiling one-year-old in overalls sitting in a high chair, his beaming mother gazing lovingly, about to feed him. The headline: ‘Raised better. That’s the Australian way.’ OK, we’re good at raising kids, even if the second sentence is needlessly patriotic. All the world raises children. It’s an individual thing. It doesn’t break on national lines.

But wait. Read the text: ‘We care about the food ... you eat. That’s why all our ... Chicken comes from ... Approved ... farms, where they are free to perch and forage.’

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